My Grandmother’s Baccalá Salad
Death is a shadow that follows us around from the day we are born. I don’t know why we ignore it and are shocked by it when it happens. I have lost many beloved people in my life and I have learned to allow grief to pass through me – accepting the inevitable and learning to love their invisible form. And they have helped me to prepare for my own passing. I think that finding peace with the ending makes the days of my life more meaningful. It adds substance to my thoughts and deeds. I have made it clear to my children and my fiancé what my wishes are when that time comes.
The first recipe is my interpretation of a dish I grew up with, cooked often by the woman who inspired me to be a chef. It may not be comfort food for everyone but for me it is.
The second was a recipe that I developed with a girlfriend who passed suddenly 3 years ago. She was a brilliant chef (but not so good at writing recipes) - so this one was a joint effort. It is truly delicious and will be comforting to anyone who makes it.
My paternal grandmother, Aida Padagrosi, emigrated from Rome in the first decade of this century. Like many other Italians, she brought with her a love for her native foods, baccalà (or salt cod) among them. Most holiday and special occasion meals at her house
My Grandmother's Baccalá Salad
started with a large array of antipasti, which might have also included oil-cured olives, roast peppers, crudités, and small salads. Her baccalà salad was one of my favorites.
Recipe
serves: 10
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Step1. , Soak the salt cod by rinsing the fish under lukewarm running water for 10 to 15 minutes. Then cover the fillets with cold water and let soak in the refrigerator overnight or for 8 to 10 hours. After they have soaked, rinse them one more time under cold running water for just 1 minute. Drain. (For this recipe you want the cod to retain a fairly strong flavor.)
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Step2. , Place the fillets in a high-sided sauté pan with enough cold water to cover, cutting the fish in half if necessary. Bring to a near boil and simmer for about 5 minutes. (It is important to cook the fish through without overcooking.) Remove from heat, drain, and allow to cool before breaking into flakes by hand. Finely chop the tough pieces from the belly that don’t flake.
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Step3. , Combine the sliced garlic and onion with the parsley, bay leaves, and oil. Fold in the flaked fish. Season to taste with pepper and red pepper. If it needs salt, that means the fish is oversoaked.
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Step4. , Wrap airtight and refrigerate for at least 24 hours to allow the flavors to marry. Bring back to room temperature before serving. Add the lemon juice at the last minute, mix, and serve.
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Step5. , Note: This salad can be served with salad greens and toasted bread, but it is best as one of many components of an antipasto or seafood feast
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